A Brazilian Holiday
Welcome to Prainha
| Located only a 2½ hour drive from the São Paulo airport, Prainha (prah-een-ya) is a rustic beach-front retreat located on the edge of the clear waters of a bay called the Mar Virado, near Ubatuba on the coast of Brazil. This view of Santos is one of the vistas you will see as you approach the coast from the highland plateau: |
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Nestled in the rain forest, and only a few miles south of the Tropic of Capricorn, Prainha is blessed with moderate temperatures year round. Hiking, bird watching, fishing, swimming and exploring the coast are among the activities available just paces from your door. Ancient ruins, restaurants, shopping at local markets, a modern marina which offers boats for hire and cruises along the coast, and historic 16th century port villages are but a short drive away. |
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Reachable only by boat or a half-mile foot path from the gently sloping beach shown here, Prainha is off the beaten path. Bring your sandals and be prepared to wade to the boat if you choose to ride. |
Prainha features comfortable lodgings consisting of two uniquely designed beach-side chalets suitable for two to four guests, a small chalet for two, and a "main house" which will comfortably sleep six or more. Pictured here is one of the chalets, with the third, or "little" chalet visible up the hill to the right: Note the gas lantern hanging above the table on the porch. This is because there is no electric service at Prainha, so don’t bother to pack your hair dryer. The refrigerators, water heaters, stoves and lights are all fueled by bottled gas. While it seems odd to most of us to "light the refrigerator," gas is the most common source of power in rural Brazil. |
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The compact chalets feature a bath with hot shower, a full kitchen with refrigerator and stove, and a sleeping loft overhead. The large porch serves as a lounging and dining area, and canvas tarps can be lowered for privacy or protection from the weather. The sound of the surf just yards away will lull you to sleep. This view is from the second chalet. The lush rain forest which surrounds the property is home to hundreds of exotic birds, other animals and plants. Wild orchids and other tropical flowers abound, and occasionally an endangered three-toed sloth makes an appearance. A pure mountain spring supplies fresh water, which is fine for drinking, even to sensitive American stomachs. |
Here is an early-morning view from the porch of one of the chalets looking toward the bay. One of the beach shelters is visible here |
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As you walk down to the beach and look to your left, this scene will come into view. While this section of coast is strewn with rocks, a sand beach lies just to the right and it is perfect for swimming. |
Here is a view showing part of the beach and a local fisherman mending his net. Note his hand-carved canoe. |
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As you look back up the hill from the chalets, you will see the "main house" pictured here. The hammock on the front porch is a typically Brazilian touch. The house features one bedroom and two full baths, a dining area and living room, and kitchen with a dining bar on the first floor, and a generous sleeping loft upstairs which can accommodate up to eight people. |
As shown here, the entire front of the house opens onto the large porch, which is the center of most activities. A sofa and a large dining table and chairs provide a place for the eating, reading, naps, conversations, and cocktails that all tend to happen on the porch. Simply relaxing there and watching the exotic birds and butterflies flit around can fill a whole afternoon. This view is from the living area looking out toward the porch. When all the doors are open the whole house feels like a part of the outdoors. |
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| The photo below was taken from the third, or "little" chalet, which is to the right of the main house as you look down the hill. The two larger chalets are seen, and the tops of the shelters on the beach are visible. |
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The shelters are a part of the bar and grill that the previous owners operated. A kitchen and three covered shelters sit close to the beach. Last summer, a young couple leased and operated the bar and it was a handy place to grab a snack of fried fresh fish or squid and a soda, a beer or perhaps a caiparinha, the national cocktail. Fresh mussels, cultivated just yards away, were a tasty treat, too. We don’t know if they will again run the place, but if not other grills are just a short walk away. The fresh seafood is spectacular and available in all seasons, and is the staple of most meals. Shrimp, fish, the traditional beans and rice, fresh salads, and lots of vegetables make up most meals. Fried sweet bananas, fresh fruits, flan, cheeses, and ice cream blended with ripe mango are favorite desserts, followed by a cafezinho, or "little coffee." Breakfast is usually fresh bread, assorted fresh fruits such as mango, papaya, pineapple, oranges, and tangerines and fruit juices, cheeses, and is always accompanied by the best coffee in the world. Coffee in Brazil is strong, but not bitter. It is simply delicious. On side trips from Prainha, you will probably have lunch at a beach-side bar and grill, such as this one. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours eating your mid-day meal. Lunch is the largest meal of the day, and no one is in a hurry then. Some general notes on traveling in Brazil: A tourist visa, available from the Brazilian Embassy in Miami, is required for entry, along with a valid passport. Visas cost $55.00 and are good for five years. Details and application forms are available on the internet. The currency of Brazil is the Real (Hay-al) in the singular, and Reais (Hay-ice) in the plural, and is expressed as R$ on price tags. The dollar is presently enjoying an exellent rate of exchange in Brazil, and bargains are plentiful. Leather goods such as shoes and belts are particularly good buys. A meal in a fine restaurant, with a drink, appetizer, main course, dessert and coffee averages around $15 a person at the present rate. Credit cards are accepted in a surprising number of restaurants and stores, but you will need some Reais for other shopping. The drinking water is safe in the major cities and at Prainha, but drinking bottled water is a safe precaution in rural areas. A favorite locally produced soda is Guaraná, (Gwah-rah-nah) and it is quite good. The language of Brazil is Brazilian Portuguese, and it is not an easy tongue to master. Unlike most of Europe, very few natives speak English, so a little study before you travel can help you learn to get around easier. The weather is pleasant year-round. Even in summer, the temperature rarely exceeds 90 degrees, and nights are generally in the 60’s, with mid-winter averaging low 80’s to mid 50’s. It is humid, though, and afternoon showers are common in the summer months. Of course, the seasons are reversed in the southern hemisphere. While some insects are present, a light spray with a repellant is all that is necessary for protection. Prainha is on the edge of the jungle, and snakes and lizards are sometimes seen in addition to the more desirable creatures. Normal vigilance when walking about is all that is required to avoid the less cuddly "critters." |